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Ruins and a Pool   Wednesday 20 August  ][ Back ]

Roman Ruins

In Obuda (just north of Buda) there are ruins of a Roman amphitheater. The setting is a little strange, and there's not really much there (hence they're called "ruins," I guess), but we wandered around for a few minutes.

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Tips for visiting Budapest

  • Budapest Card — Supposedly gets you into attractions at reduced price (even free). Some of the major attractions, though, are missing (i.e., Parliament, which costs a fortune). It saved us enough money to pay for itself, but just barely — and with conscious effort, too.
  • Make an effort to be there on 20 August. The height of tourist season, but the fireworks show that evening will be beyond anything in your wildest imagination.
  • If you're planning an August trip, leave the jeans and long-sleeve shirts behind. "But what if it get's cold?" You'll only wish it did.
  • Go swimming in the Gellért Hotel's pools. Pricey, but you'll never get another chance to swim in a pool like that . . .
  • The History of Budapest museum on castle hill — skip it. The exhibits are a little dry, to be honest.
  • Go to the ethnographic museum across from the Parliament Even if you don't get any further than main hall, it will be worth the 500 Forent admission fee.
  • Learn a little German before going. Honestly, forget Hungarian because you'll need a year's course just to manage the pronunciation. Most folks speak English (especially in shops and restaurants), but there were a few cases where German would have helped.
  • Make a day-trip to Szentedre, a small city about twenty kilometers to the north. You can get there by public transportation, or rent a bike and ride there on a "bike path." But be forewarned: the bike path is poorly marked in some sections and difficult or impossible to follow. And it's very bumpy.
  • If you're going to go to the Gellért Hotel's pool, take a real swim cap with you. Otherwise, you'll be issued a blue "cap" that will make you feel more like a lunch lady than a tourist.
  • Check to see if the museum requires photo tickets. If not, it's probably a crappy museum.
  • Try the traditional Hungarian fish soup, but if you're with a friend, share a single serving. It's worth it for the experience, but not the tastiest thing I've ever had.

The Gellért Hotel Swimming Pool

Budapest is known for its pools and thermal baths. There are dozens. But certainly none are more elegant than the Gellért Hotel's indoor swimming pool. Probably none are nearly as expensive, either. We paid the equivalent of 30 z³oty each to get in, but it was certainly worth it. After all, how many chances does one get to swim in a pool with columns?

We went there in the afternoon and ended up spending several hours just lounging around in the warm/hot water pool. It was nice, but I couldn't help imagining how it would have felt after our hardest day of riding.

The only minus — required "swim caps."      (View slide show)


Fireworks

St. Steven seems to be everywhere during this vacation. We went to his basilica; we saw his mummified hand; we climbed the hill he supposedly tumbled down. And we were there for the celebration of his birthday on 20 August — a national holiday, culminating in some pretty amazing fireworks.

For those of you who've been in Boston on July Fourth, I can sum up the scope of the Budapest show fairly succinctly. Imagine the same amount of fireworks that are sent up from the barge on the Charles also being launched simultaneously from the MIT campus, the BU bridge, and perhaps a few from the Pru for good measure. That's basically what they do in Budapest: three huge shows spread along the Danube, on both the Buda and Pest sides, with a few more launched from other areas from time to time and a massive finale that includes a curtain of glowing sparks falling from the Chain Bridge.

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Coming back after the fireworks was a crowded, messy affair. It was hot; the air stank of sulfur; and there were crowds. Getting on the subway to go back to where we were staying was an adventure in and of itself.

On the other hand, we did get to see some amazing views of Budapest as we crossed the river.

(Click on images below to enlarge)

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