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November
1997
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Prague is, without a doubt, the most
amazing city I've visited. With narrow cobblestone
streets and a huge amount of medieval architecture,
it literally has almost magic feel, especially
as you move from the Old Town, across the Charles
Bridge, up the hill to Prague Castle.
I went to Prague in November 1997 with a fellow
Peace Corps Volunteer, Charles. We were there
four days, I believe. Or at least that was
the plan. We missed the bus to get to Kraków
to get the train to Prague, so we ended up
going a day later.
Prague
is also a favorite city of mine because it
was there that I took the best picture I've
ever taken in my life (at right). I stood across
the street from this gentleman with a Zenit
camera and a 200mm lens, and I waited probably
ten minutes for all the people and cars to
clear out.
Some indie band once contacted me about the possibility
of using that photograph as the cover to their
album. Somehow, it all fell through —
and I'm fairly sure that I have committed an
unforgivable sin and lost the negative. |
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Old Town
The Old Town has a smallish market square (of
course everything is small when compared to
Kraków's market square), but it is a pleasant
place to start. |
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| Views from the tower
(Staromestskį ve¾) |
Charles Bridge (Karluv most)
Linking the Old Town with the Malį Strana (area
just below Prague Castle) is Charles Bridge,
stretching across the Vltava River.
All along the bridge are Baroque statues (first
placed there in the seventeenth century, now
replaced with replicas while the originals
sit in museums), local artisans selling their
wares (everything from pipes to paintings),
musicians playing all types of music (on everything
from guitars to wine glasses), and people just
sitting alone, being quiet.
Charles and I crossed it a number of times, and
yet it never seemed to lose its charm. I always
wanted to linger a while.
(More information on its history is available
at www.myczechrepublic.com)
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| Prague Castle from
the tower at the Charles Bridge |
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| Gargoyles atop St.
Vitus Cathedral |
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| Entertainers at Prague
Castle |
Prague Castle (Pra¾skż hrad)
Founded in the ninth century, Prague Castle overlooks
the Charles Bridge and literally seems to draw
you to itself. In the Middle Ages, it served
as the spiritual and monarchial seat; today,
it serves as the "seat of the Czech president"
and storehouse for some of the royal jewels.
(More information on its history is available
at www.myczechrepublic.com)
Among the highlights is the fourteenth-century
St. Vitus Cathedral, impressive for its immensity,
and the Golden Lane (Zlatį ulicka), impressive
for its dwarf-size buildings. There are gardens
all around the castle, Taken all together,
it makes for a fairytale feel.
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| Prague Castle |
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Of course, while there, I scribbled away in my
travel notebook:
This city is filled with tourists. I've
heard very little Czech on the street,
but a lot of other languages, primarily
English, German, and a lot of French.
Everyone is taking pictures, and you run
into a tour group every five minutes,
if that infrequently. You have to wonder
what the place would be like if there
were fewer people. But it is nice to take
pictures and not feel quite so conspicuous
about it.
I thought about going to a concert —
Prague is suppose to be the land of inexpensive
music. If you're here on dollars, then
yes, it is quite reasonable. If you're
here on z³oty, however, it's quite a different
story. The performance I was interested
in was 400 Kc, which is about 40 z³. That's
only a little over $10, but for me at
the moment, it's entirely out of my price
range.
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A
note on the photographs: they're note exactly
clear, I know, and they're also not exactly
representative of Prague. I'd just begun playing
with black and white and it was the first trip
I went on without any color film whatsoever.
Charles had color film, and though I've scanned
some of his excellent pictures, I can't find
the files now. It's a shame — his night
pictures were stunning. |
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