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I first came to Poland in June 1996. I arrived, in fact, on
3 June 1996. I can remember the exact day though I have trouble
remember the exact date of my parents' wedding anniversary
(the seventh of June, not the ninth) because it was
the beginning of a "grand adventure," so to say:
three years in the Peace Corps.
(That still doesn't explain why I can't remember my folks' anniversary
until it's too late, but never mind.)
How did it come about that I was sent to Poland
in the Peace Corps? It is strange to realize
that now — Poland is a member of NATO
and the EU. But in 1996, I arrived with about
seventy other Peace Corps Volunteers to "change
the world." Or at least Poland.
Poland invited the Peace Corps sometime in the
early nineties. Most of the volunteers were
"Small Business" volunteers (i.e.,
intended to help foster capitalism), environmental
volunteers, and English teaching volunteers
(who made up the vast majority).
My group was the twelfth in Poland. I believe
there were two more groups after mine, then
the Polish branch was closed down.
So much for the history of the Peace Corps in
Poland. How did I originally get there?
When I first started thinking about joining the Peace Corps (remember
those spots on TV: "The toughest job you'll ever love."),
I wanted to go to Central America. "No can do," they told
me during the interview. "How about Africa?" They suggested
Africa because I'd studied a little French in college. (When I say
"I studied French," I mean that in the loosest sense —
I took the two years of required foreign language study at King
College, and now I would be hard pressed to say, "Can I have
some milk, please?") "Africa it is," I replied, only
to get more information later: "We actually need people in
Eastern Europe. Are you willing?"
I'd been preparing myself mentally for two years of heat; suddenly,
I had to prepare myself for two years of cold.
I was given the choice between Bulgaria, Moldova, Kazakstan ("Eastern
Europe?" I thought. I suppose they counted the former Soviet
Union as one big Eastern European blob.), Poland, and another one.
I chose Poland because of the music of Henryk
Góreck. |
To say that Poland is special to me is an understatement. For
more than six years it's been my home, and I've traveled through
quite a lot of it, though I would hesitate to say "extensively."
My first stay in Poland lasted three years. I came back in 2001
with the intention of staying a year.
I stayed a bit longer.
I write this while still in Poland, but tend to write as if I've already
returned to the States.
I
lived in Lipnica Wielka, which means "Great
Lipnica." Lipnica is situated at the bottom of Babia
Góra.
The
nearest neighboring village was Jabłonka
(pronounced "Ya-bwan-ka"). My wife grew up there.
Jabłonka is a bit larger population than Lipnica, but don't
let anyone tell you it's a "town" will Lipnica is
a backwater village. (There's a bit of rivalry between the
villages, as one might expect.)
Whenever
I needed a bit of "culture" (i.e., a decent meal
at a good restaurant or a outing to the cinema) I went to
Nowy Targ. It doesn't
look like it from the first impression I've presented here
at right, but it is a genuine "town." You might
even call it a "city" if you're feeling frisky.
Zakopane
("buried") was for nature (i.e., long walks in the
valleys, hikes in the mountains). It's sort of like the American
Gatlenburg.
Kraków
was for city life (i.e., symphony, theater, etc.). It's unlike
any city in the States, so what's the point of comparing.
Like Prague, Kraków
was one of the cities Hitler so graciously "spared"
from destruction.
Both of course were for tourists. There are probably no other
more tourist-infested cities in Poland, but there are reasons
for that.
When
I leave, I usually go through Warsaw
— "Warszawa" in Polish, pronounced "Var-shav-a."
There are often tourists there, but it's certainly not
touristy. The Germans took care of that in the Second World
War, and the Soviets during the Cold War with their lovely
Stalinist architecture. "Social Realism" it was
called. I can think of a few other terms.
And
speaking of Germans, I would be remiss not to mention the
city where the Second World War all started — sort of.
The Poles call it Gdańsk.
The Germans insisted on calling it "Danzig" and
went to war over it.
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